Simple steel or rubber pads placed under the springs. Ideal for small drops with minimal cost.
Stock springs replaced with shorter, stiffer versions. Offers more noticeable drop.
Machined knuckles that sit lower on the hub. Maintains original spring characteristics.
Replace rubber bushings to tighten suspension geometry. Improves handling precision.
Ever glance at a sleek, close‑to‑the‑ground ride on the street and wonder how you could get that look without blowing your savings? Cheapest car lowering is totally doable - you just need the right tricks, a bit of elbow grease, and a clear plan.
Car lowering is the process of reducing a vehicle's ride height to improve handling, stance, and visual appeal. While high‑end coilovers or air‑suspension kits dominate the market, there are surprisingly cheap alternatives that still give you a respectable drop.
Understanding the goal helps you pick a method that hits the sweet spot between cost, safety, and drivability.
Each approach costs under $300 in most Australian markets and can be installed with basic hand tools.
Rubber blocks sit between the coil spring and the strut mount, effectively shortening the spring’s free length. They’re cheap (often $20‑$40 per corner) and reversible - just pop them out if you want stock height again.
Pros:
Cons:
For most street‑driven cars in Brisbane, rubber blocks give that “lowered” look without compromising comfort.
These are pre‑stretched springs cut to a shorter length, usually offering a 20‑30mm drop. Prices range from $80 to $150 per set, depending on brand and spring rate.
Installation requires removing the wheels, unbolting the strut assembly, and swapping the springs. If you’re comfortable with a basic jack and a socket set, it’s a Saturday‑day job.
Pros:
Cons:
Drop spindles are machined to sit lower on the hub, giving a drop of 15‑25mm without altering spring rates. They’re a bit pricier than springs - around $120‑$180 per pair - but they keep ride comfort intact.
Installation is more involved: you need to detach the steering knuckle, press the spindle out, and bolt the new one in. Many DIYers use a press kit or send it to a local garage.
Pros:
Cons:
Switching from rubber to polyurethane bushings reduces suspension flex, effectively lowering the car’s ride height by 5‑10mm after a short break‑in. A full set for front and rear can cost $100‑$200.
The process involves removing each bushing, pressing in the new one, and reinstalling the components. It’s a bit messy but doable with a bushing press and a little patience.
Pros:
Cons:
While not a suspension tweak, shedding unnecessary weight (e.g., rear seats, sound deadening, heavy spare) lowers the centre of gravity. In a typical 4‑seat sedan, you can lose 30‑50kg for under $50 in labor.
Less weight means the car sits naturally lower under load, especially when paired with softer springs. Just watch out for legal requirements - some removals may affect roadworthiness.
| Method | Typical Cost (AUD) | Drop Achieved | Ride Comfort | Installation Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rubber blocks | $20-$40 | 10-15mm | Good | Easy (no lift) |
| Lowering springs | $80-$150 | 20-30mm | Moderate | Medium (jack & socket set) |
| Drop spindles | $120-$180 | 15-25mm | Good | Hard (press or garage) |
| Polyurethane bushings | $100-$200 | 5-10mm | Firm | Medium (bushing press) |
| DIY weight reduction | $30-$50 | Variable (depends on kg removed) | Neutral | Easy (hand tools) |
That’s it - you’ve saved $30 and shaved off 12mm of ride height.
If you plan to hit the track regularly, or you haul heavy loads (like a caravan), the ultra‑budget methods may compromise safety. In those cases, investing a bit more in a quality coilover kit or adjustable air‑suspension pays off in durability and tunability.
No, rubber blocks are designed to sit on the spring without compressing it. They simply act as a spacer, so the spring’s coil rate stays the same.
It depends on how much you drop. A modest 10‑15mm drop with rubber blocks usually doesn’t demand new shocks. For a 30mm drop using lowering springs, stiffer shocks are recommended to control the increased spring rate.
Absolutely. Many enthusiasts pair rubber blocks with polyurethane bushings and a light weight reduction to achieve a 20‑25mm total drop without spending a fortune.
Lowering can improve cornering grip, but if the suspension becomes too stiff you may lose compliance over bumpy, wet surfaces. Keep the drop modest and retain some compliance with softer bushings if you drive in rainy Brisbane conditions.
Most insurers consider suspension modifications a change in risk profile. It’s best to notify them; failure to do so could affect a claim if the modification is deemed a factor.
If you’re after the look and a marginal handling boost without draining your wallet, start with rubber blocks or a set of budget lowering springs. Upgrade to drop spindles or polyurethane bushings only if you need extra drop or sharper response. Remember, the cheapest route works best when you follow the checklist, get a proper alignment, and stay within Queensland’s legal limits. Happy lowering!
